| Six days of fly fishing
the backwaters
By Ian Scott with John Guldin
Almost every morning, we met in the early hours by the locked gate of the Empress Hotel
waiting for our taxi to take us to the Cangrejos Marina. On one fine morning, I was at the
gate all right, only it was on the outside yelling to get back in. The reasons why I was
on the outside has to do with a little drink known as Coco Locos, a philosophy based on
"why not?" and the fact that I was on my first real vacation in years. I was
conforming my attitude to the Caribbean latitude!
I had arrived in San Juan much later than scheduled on a Friday night. Because of winter
snow conditions, I missed a connecting flight from Cleveland after arriving there from
Toronto. I had to fly to Newark where a switch from Continental Airlines to the American
Airlines San Juan evening flight was necessary in order to arrive in Puerto Rico the same
day I left Toronto.
Finally arriving at the Empress Hotel after midnight, I met John Guldin in person for the
first time. The concerns that both of us had about spending 6 days fishing with someone
that we'd never met before were dispelled immediately. John and I hit it off right away
while sipping a Medalla - the start of what I look forward to as a long friendship that
has more than just fly fishing in common. It seemed to defy the odds that John and I would
have similar tastes in food, drink, and humour, while sharing a similar basic philosophy.
When "Why not?" seems to be a mutually common response to almost any question,
whether it involves fly fishing the surf for the first time (maybe more on this later - a
"What Not To Do" article), a drink at the bar, or taking a walk to explore the
local culture, you can probably be sure that spending four hours in a boat every day will
be enjoyable, even when the fish aren't hitting.
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Yes, I did miss one day of fishing in Puerto Rico. But as I was on my first real
vacation in years, I figure I can be excused the one off day. Besides, out of six days,
this was the only fishing day that offered no fish - not even a hit - from the mighty
tarpon we were chasing. Four of the six days John and I spent fishing the back country
near San Juan did provide memorable fishing excitement.
It didn't take me long to realize that when it comes to Tarpon, you can't make mistakes if
you want to boat the Silver King. On our first day out in the lagoon, John and I were
fishing with Captain Juan Carlos Toruella. We met Juan at 6AM at the marina, a 7 minute
cab ride from the Empress. By 6:30AM, Captain Juan had netted a good load of bait fish,
had John up on the bow casting a chartreuse Clouser, while I waited for my turn with a
spinning rod in hand, baited with threadfin herring.
At around 8:30AM, I felt my first tarpon. The reel zinged as the tarpon took out line and
my rod bent over. I thought for sure the rod was going to break. Prior to this fish, I had
received plenty of advice from John, Juan and others who regularly fish for tarpon, but
none of their advice could really prepare me for what was going to happen. I thought I
would be able to heed the advice, but my freshwater habits were too ingrained. Once they
feel the sting of the hook, a tarpon will rocket into the air trying to break you off.
"Bow! Bow!" I did hear the exhortation from both Juan and John, yelling at me
from opposite ends of the boat. I'd read about this 'bowing to the king' thing previously.
However, I was caught up with experiencing my first tarpon, full of chutzpah that I
managed to hook one within hours of setting out on my first saltwater fishing trip.
The advice from my guide and fishing companion were lost on me, as I thrilled to see the
tarpon jump. Ah, but I felt my heart sink when the fish hit the water, my rod having ben
pulled upwards in freshwater fashion to take in slack. With tarpon, the angler must
"bow" and extend the rod towards the leaping fish in order to put as much slack
in the line as possible. If a tarpon lands on a tight line, it will likely break it.
Redfaced and embarassed, and a little bit angry with myself, I apologized to Captain Juan
who grinned and said, "Don't worry - it happens to everyone the first time they fish
for tarpon." Both Juan and John laughed, and then proceeded to show me how to bow to
the king, should there be a next time.
The next time wasn't long in coming.
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They say that fighting a tarpon requires not only physical strength, but
psychological fortitude as well. My second hook-up allowed me to master the 'bowing to the
king' movement, as the fish afforded me plenty of opportunity with its dazzling displays
of aerial acrobatics. Pumping the rod, reeling in slack, letting the fish run, then back
to pumping and reeling - that did a number on my right bicep. I'm not sure exactly how
long it took to bring that fish into the boat, but I do know that there were several times
when I thought I had conquered the fish, and as Captain Juan was set to bring the fish
into the boat, the King would take off on another run. This where the psychological
fortitude comes in. Just when I thought the fight was over, and looking forward to rest,
the tarpon would make another exciting run, putting the reel's drag system to the test. I
read somewhere that tarpon can swim at 22 mph. I believe it.
I think it was about 35 minutes before the fish was finally boated. By this time, the sun
was high in the sky, and I was sweating buckets - partially from the heat, but mostly from
the exertion of fighting the fish.
On our second day and for the remainder of our trips on the boat, we had the services of
Captain Omar Orraca, who has been guiding on the lagoons and ocean surrounding Puerto Rico
since 1994. Although Omar didn't quite have us fishing as fast as Captain Juan did, he did
get us into some fish. "Murphy's Law!" was a common epethet uttered by Cpt. Omar
when things didn't quite go as he expects, and provided John and I both with some humor,
listening to him. Omar had told us it should be a good day for tarpon fishing, but after a
couple of hours of no hits, it must have been "Murphy's Law" why there were no
tarpon rolling on the surface of the brackish water. Omar had a surprise though - a
surprise which nearly converted me to Roman Catholicism.
Cpt. Omar asked us to bring our lines before firing up the 195 horse
engine on his 18 foot boat. John told me that he thought we were going out of the marina
in order to fish along the rocky ocean shore as he had with Capt. Juan in the past. It
sounded like a good idea to me. However, after clearing the inlet, instead of turning left
towards the shore, Omar turned right and piloted the small skiff over 8 foot ocean swells,
out toward the reef where the bow of the boat would point upwards at what I thought was a
death-inviting angle. Then I'd feel the boat smash down after it had crested another
swell. With white knuckles and holding onto my seat, remembering that I don't know how to
swim, I looked at John and yelled out that maybe crossing myself would offer some comfort
as I tasted saltwater splashing against my lips and face.
John
& Capt. Omar Discussing Flies
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After 15 minutes of half sailing, half flying, Omar cut the engine. We were about 1/2 a
mile off shore and were drifting up and down and up and down the rolling swells. Fly fish
in this? You've got to be kidding! I could hardly keep my balance sitting down, let alone
standing up and casting a fly rod! I was amazed at the way Omar would walk around the
boat, even standing on the gunwales as the ocean waters tossed us around.
I was later astonished to discover that John's wife, Liba, had set some IGFA fly fishing
world records while out on this very same reef, in swells that were much higher than what
I had experienced. Maybe another day I'd give it a shot, to stand on the boat and cast
while being tossed about, but not this day. Omar took the spinning rod from the holder,
baited it up, cast it out, and handed it to me. Literally within 30 seconds, I had a fish
on, but in another 30 seconds, lost it. This happened a few times before Omar changed the
hook. Meanwhile, John was casting and fishing from the other side of the boat and had only
one hit.
"Lucky Ian" became the refrain for the day as fish after fish went to my bait. I
ended up losing about 8 fish, while landing a ten pound Horse-Eyed Jack, half a Bonita --
the other half was torn away from its head by a shark while I was fighting the Bonita, and
lost a 35 pound Barracuda just before it could be boated as it managed to chew threw the
leader.
I was beginning to enjoy scrambling around the boat while it was being tossed on the ocean
swells as I fought fish, but eventually it came time to end the fishing for the day. Omar
fired up the motor once again to make the trip back over the swells and into the marina.
On Monday, Omar decided that due to the tides and fish activity, and afternoon fishing
trip might be more successful for tarpon than the morning. On Tuesday, we were able to
sleep in as we didn't have to meet Omar until 2:30 in the afternoon. Omar's prediction was
right on target. During our week of fishing, we enjoyed the best day of tarpon fishing
that afternoon.
After my third fish, I had this "bow to the king" action down pat, and was able
to put it to good practice. During those four hours of fishing, we were able to record
hook ups of over then fish, with six of them landed.
Iguana Swimming Near Boat
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Although we did land some nice fish, the highlight of the afternoon was probably the
fish that wasn't landed. John had been up on the bow of the boat, fly casting a mylar
minnow, when an enormous tarpon hit it. Galliantly, he fought the fish while his Abel reel
was put through its paces - the tarpon decided to take us on a long trip from one lagoon,
up through a channel bordered by mangroves, and headed straight for the city of San Juan.
During a couple of jumps, the tarpon flared his enormous gills and showed us that he meant
business. "Oooohs and "ahhhhs" emanated from our mouths as this fish put on
the best display yet.
We followed the fish up the mangrove channel while local men fishing for sand perch from
the bank watched on in apparent envy. The fish continued to take line off John's reel, and
the only thing Omar could do was follow the fish with the boat to keep John in the game.
He fought the fish perfectly, bowing to the king whenever it would jump. As we got closer
to the San Juan lagoon which is also known as the 'Playground', the tarpon seemed to take
on more life. Then, it suddenly turned, and headed back in the opposite direction. It
jumped, and we could again see it's inflamed gills - John paying the appropriate respects
with his bowing, and giving it slack. But then, unpredictably, it jumped twice and John
not ready for the second aerial acrobats following the first one, lost the fish. John
actually claims he is in some ways thankful he lost the fish - had it made it to the
'Playground', it would have seriously thrown us off our eating and playing schedule for
the evening!
But even in the disappointment of losing the fish, there was the unspoken awe that we all
acknowledged - awe of the power of the Silver King. I'm looking forward to my next trip
for tarpon, and sure hope John is along for the trip. I want to steal some of his flies!
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